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October 2, 2005

Parque Manuel Antonio

 White-faced MonkeysWe woke up to white-faced capuchin monkeys hucking coconuts onto the ground on the open patio outside our room. They were high up in the palm trees, breaking open the coconuts and then retrieving them to drink the milk out of the shell like they were jugs of wine. I told Em that now we didn’t need to go to the park because we had already seen monkeys but she didn’t go for it.

We knew that even if it was pouring rain, today was the day we would hike in the national park because it would be closed to tourists tomorrow. It was indeed pouring rain when we woke up and only got worse by the time we waded the estuary that led to the park. Amazingly, visitors have to literally cross this river by foot to get to the entrance to the park. The river mouth flows into the Pacific and the depth changes with the tide. I’m guessing that the reason that there is no bridge is to keep tourism down in the small park, but it was a little unnerving as we crossed the river directly in front of a sign that warns you not to swim because there are crocodiles.

The best part about the rain was that we had the park all to ourselves. The area was incredible with the tropical rain forest coming right up to sandy beaches along the Pacific. A couple of times the downpour was so strong, it was difficult to tell if we were still on a trail or if we had suddenly ended up in a river coming off the mountain side. At one point the trail abruptly came to an end as several trees and lots of mud had fallen across it. As we found out later, this was in fact the result of a huge mudslide that we saw were able to see more of from a trail above. The rangers had not discovered it yet, but it was big. Taking out an entire hillside, hundreds of trees had been uprooted and had fallen into the sea below. It would have been trouble if anyone had been on that lower trail.

The mudslide prevented us from getting to a secluded cove with a beach for swimming, but I suppose we were already wet enough. Em waited around with hope to see some of the squirrel monkeys that the park is famous for, but except for a few teasing calls from up in the tree canopy, we were without luck. In fact hardly any animals were out and about in the heavy rain, but the views and the experience of being there by ourselves made it well worth it.

By the time we left the park we were soaked to the bone. The tide was in, and so the estuary crossing was much deeper and wider. A local with a small boat gave us a ride across so we didn’t have to swim. We are so soaked, I have no idea how we are going to dry out all these clothes and shoes without sun. We may just have to get used to the mildew.

Later, we walked down to the end of the beach and found the small hotel I had originally hoped to stay in. It was still a hotel and had not been turned into a restaurant. Go figure. Alas, the monkeys visiting this morning made our hotel more than worth it.

We are constantly moving. Tomorrow we are off to Monteverde in the center of Costa Rica.

Posted by Peter Mork at October 2, 2005 11:59 AM

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